2023 Trips
Saturday, May 27th, 2023: 2023 Trips, Colorado Plateau, Regions, Road Trips.
After making a solitary trip to my desert land last fall, I told everyone I would return for a more social visit in the spring. But over the winter I became immersed in finishing my book project, and as it got better and closer to being finished, the desert trip got pushed back.
The book was essentially completed a couple of days ago – I ordered a one-off print copy for my mom, who will be my first reader – so I was finally free to travel, just in time for my birthday.
On the planned day of departure – to my amazement – I was fully packed with a full gas tank, and left precisely on time, at a reasonable hour in the morning but with plenty of time to reach my first day’s destination long before sunset. For some reason, for the first time in my life, I was starting a trip not frantic and beside myself with stress, but fully prepared, having checked and double-checked my packing list. For perhaps the first time in my life, I was starting a trip in a state of perfect calm.
My little Sidekick was packed with everything I would need for a ten-day backcountry trip, yet it looked nothing like the humongous “overlanding” rigs every yuppie is now expected to have for expeditions like this. One reason I chose and keep this vehicle is that you don’t have to climb up or bend over to reach any of the cargo, and the rear passenger doors provide easy access to stuff packed in the middle. There was even plenty of headroom left to see out the back.
My usual starting point for this trip is a small town in southeast Utah. But it’s seven and a half hours from home, and years ago I vowed never to drive more than six hours in a day. In the past, I’ve started later and made an intermediate overnight stop. With a stop to make lunch, today’s drive would last more than eight hours, and by the time I reached the north end of the Navajo Reservation my calm was gone, I was thoroughly frazzled, and both my hip and shoulder were in pain. I did arrive long before sunset, but I still had to shop for supplies before dinner and a shower.
I’d booked a room in the motel Katie and I had discovered on our “rock art expedition” in April 1987. Designed by a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, it’s a small, modest structure that nevertheless won our admiration with its clever adaptation to its high-elevation Southwestern habitat.
I’d stayed there once since, a few months before COVID, and found it in harsh decline. The original clerestory windows that you opened with a long-handled crank had been replaced by fixed windows, the beautiful built-in hardwood furnishings hadn’t been maintained, and the place had been clumsily rewired so that my neighbor woke me up in the night because his TV was plugged in to my room through a ragged hole punched in the wall between us.
After COVID, two local women bought and refurbished the place. Now, it’s modern and fairly comfortable, but it’s lost much of the old “Wright” feel.
Saturday, May 27th, 2023: 2023 Trips, Colorado Plateau, Regions, Road Trips.
My next destination was a motel in a town four hours west. On the way, I would attempt a side trip into some forbidding back country, hoping to explore a remote canyon where others had found rock writings and paintings.
I headed west on what may be the world’s most beautiful highway, frustrated that I couldn’t stay in this area for months instead of days. In the past, I’d dreamed of exploring the sprawling, red sandstone plateau that loomed 1,600 feet above on my right. But it features forested habitat similar to our high mountains back home, and my vague goal for this trip was to find unfamiliar pictographs, not familiar habitat. So I kept driving past one of my favorite landscapes and reminiscing about past visits.
Past the alpine plateau, the road enters a land of red-and-white sandstone, following ledges between high mesas on your left and deep, sheer-walled canyons that are mostly hidden at right. It gets drier and more stark as you approach the River, and finally the peaks of one of my favorite mountain ranges emerge from behind the mesas to the west. They were still carrying a lot of snow, and while I was getting sick of snow at home a few months ago, I always thrill to see snowy mountains in the midst of desert at this hot time of year.
The River crossing is a truly awesome, heart-in-throat place which is normally passed too quickly on the highway. But my turnoff was just past the bridge on the right – an unmarked dirt road.
This is one of the few routes into the most inaccessible parts of the canyonlands – the terrain in which Jeep commercials are filmed. I’ve driven shorter, less rugged roads on similar terrain in nearby areas, but I expected this road to be a harsh test of my vehicle. Driving here comes with all kinds of warnings – if it rains, you’ll be stuck in cement-like clay, and if you break down and need a tow, it will cost a minimum of $1,500. Of course there’s no chance of cell phone service anywhere nearby.
I pulled over just past the turnoff to review my maps. And just as I finished, a convoy passed me: a late-model 4-door Jeep Wrangler and a Toyota FJ, both kitted out in full expedition gear. I pulled in behind them, and to my surprise and probably theirs, it soon became obvious I was faster than them. They stopped to take pictures, pulling over so I could pass.
This was completely new country for me. Like the highway, this back road follows ledges around the base of mesas, with a maze of canyons below on your right. My destination was only about nine miles away as the crow flies, but it takes over twenty miles of driving to get there because the road repeatedly winds back into deep coves then leads out around sharp points, following the ledges to skirt the network of canyons below.
Soil is very thin in this country, and like most, this road was built on bedrock, so I soon encountered what I’d expected: stretches of rumpled sandstone that you have to cross very slowly, rocking back and forth, if you can – there are always transverse ledges and spines that require high clearance. And then, when the road crosses a wash that forms the head of one of the lower canyons, there are sections blocked by boulders and ledges you have to carefully drive over so as not to break an axle, or a differential, or get stuck with a wheel in the air.
But at least this road is maintained, unlike the abandoned mine roads I drive in the Mojave. I hadn’t even needed my 4wd yet, and I got farther and farther ahead of the Jeep and Toyota, but it still seemed to take forever. Each point I rounded revealed a whole new landscape.
Despite the dozens of very slow bedrock sections and boulder-lined washes, I was pushing my little vehicle everywhere else, for an overall average of at least 15 mph. Finally I crested a rise and saw what I believed to be my canyon down in the bottom of a broad valley. Again I stopped to review the maps, and before I could get going again, the Jeep and Toyota overtook me for the second time, all waving and smiling.
But when I reached the bottom of the valley, I ended up passing the Toyota yet again – while all I was using were paper maps, this driver was checking GPS on his phone. Here, the road forked – I was taking the dead-end left fork up the canyon, thinking I would eventually encounter the Jeep, but I eventually realized that the others had taken the right fork farther into the backcountry.
I was here because an online trip report by “rock art nuts” said they’d found both petroglyphs and pictographs up the canyon. The road just followed the dry wash, which, since there had been rains a while back, was now hard-packed red clay. The surrounding valley started out open, but after a mile the cliffs closed in on both sides and I came to an old corral – the only human structures in this region are corrals. Beyond that point the wash was only wide enough for my vehicle, and I soon came to bouldery stretches that required all my ground clearance and concentration. Too late, I realized I should’ve parked at the corral and walked in, but fortunately I soon came to a campsite where I pulled up and parked. Time for lunch! And someone had long ago left a much-corroded chrome dinette standing here among the junipers, which I hauled into the shade.
Despite the spectacular surroundings, the long, strenuous, rough ride had left me in a strange mental and emotional state. I found I was suddenly severely absent-minded, with virtually no short-term memory. Powerful gusts blew down the canyon, knocking things over and sending me chasing after them.
After lunch, I packed for a hike up-canyon, but I kept locking the vehicle only to have to unlock it and unpack it again to find something I’d forgotten. I couldn’t get anything right the first time.
As soon as I started walking I discovered I was the first person to drive up here in a long time. The only remains of tracks were from a UTV.
The road, such as it was, veered out of the main canyon into a side canyon, and the main canyon became impassable to vehicles. And past that point I found a simple petroglyph panel.
To my chagrin those were the only prehistoric markings I found in that canyon.
I returned and followed the road into the side canyon. All I found there was an old print of a cowboy boot, and some ranching debris.
So I returned to the Sidekick and drove back to the corral, where I saw another side canyon, and found an old road leading to a campsite in its mouth. I explored that canyon on a cattle trail, and found it was a box canyon, headed by cliffs with a dry pour-off high above, and with an old earthen dam below which had been breached by flood. As I approached, a great horned owl flew out of a juniper in front of me. It went left out of sight behind vegetation. And then as I proceeded toward the cliffs, I thought I saw something flying to a crack up there, so I snapped a quick picture. In my room that night, I zoomed in on the pic and sure enough, there was the owl, huddling under a small bush.
Like I said, I was in a weird state. I felt really disappointed at finding only one little petroglyph panel after such an arduous drive. I was perfectly aware I should be thrilled by the natural beauty surrounding me, as I would’ve been in the past, but I simply wasn’t, and I couldn’t figure out why. Maybe it was some kind of physical depression.
On the drive back to the highway I took it slow, stopping frequently for water and pics. My clutch is wearing out so that it needs annual adjustment, and it was becoming almost impossible to shift gears without stopping and turning off the engine first. That’s something I can fix and will probably have to in the next few days.
The day had felt either hot or cool when I was out of the vehicle, depending on whether I had shade from cliffs or clouds. But in the vehicle it was always hot – big windows all around – and I soon turned the A/C on high. The highway drive up the long wash from the river went smoothly, and went even faster once I emerged onto the rolling country below the snowy mountains.
When returning on the back road along those ledges I’d been hearing a strange squeaking noise from the back, and about ten miles from town I suddenly remembered that when I stopped in that canyon for lunch, I’d taken two bundles of firewood out of the vehicle so I could reach my clothes bag underneath, and set them loosely on top, so they hung out over the edge of the roof rack and would be easy to notice so I wouldn’t forget to put them back in afterward.
But in my absent-minded state I’d forgotten them completely, and in all the bouncing and shaking and rocking over twenty miles of that bad road they’d certainly bounced off, probably before I even left the canyon. And even if they’d survived that, driving 65 mph on the highway would’ve definitely blown them off.
But I watched for several more miles until I saw a turnoff. And once stopped, I found that the firewood bundles had settled into the space between crossbars of the roof rack, miraculously surviving all that rough ride and highway speed. Something good was finally happening!
As I drove north to town, I passed a continuous parade of big southbound pickup trucks hauling powerboats that were twice their size, heading south to Lake Powell. It was Friday evening, and dozens and dozens of Mormon families from the tiny hamlets of the remote interior were driving hours to spend their national holiday on the doomed reservoir.
Friday, June 2nd, 2023: 2023 Trips, Colorado Plateau, Indigenous Cultures, Regions, Road Trips, Society.
Day three was my birthday, and I wanted to avoid driving, so I just relaxed in my room, writing about day two and trying to figure out what to do next. On the dozen or so previous visits I’d made to this region, I’d seen all the famous and easily-accessed petroglyph and pictograph sites. More remote “rock art” locations used to be shown on AAA maps, until it became obvious that the general public saw this as an invitation to vandalize.
Since then, people who care about these artifacts have generally avoided publishing their locations. In addition to climate change, the spread of invasive species, and the breakdown of local communities, vandalism is one of the many tragic consequences of our mechanically-enhanced mobility. Giving random strangers access to the locations of prehistoric sites truly is an invitation to vandalize in a society with such poor social controls as ours. And if you care about these things, you really should get to know and establish trust with the local people who know where they are, before even thinking about looking for them.
But for this trip I’d been able to round up a few online accounts of lesser-known sites, written not by enthusiasts but by ordinary off-road adventurers. I’d printed those at home, and now in my room I laid them out on the spare bed, along with the relevant maps.
Usually I schedule trips to avoid holiday traffic and crowds, but my birthday fell on Memorial Day weekend this year, and day four was pretty much the big day, the Sunday before the holiday when most travelers would be packing up and heading home. My Sunday destination was a big canyon south of town which I’d somehow never noticed before, and which one of the adventurers said had “a lot of rock art”. A high-clearance 4wd track winds down it for about twenty miles from the highway to a river crossing, past which the track continues eastward. I had no hope of fording the river, but hoped to find a campsite and spend the night. I had no idea what the conditions would be like or how far my vehicle would get on what would likely be a difficult road.
After turning onto the back road, the first thing I found, even before the track entered the canyon itself, was a monster pickup truck and a huge travel trailer, detached, parked in a stark roadside clearing. I assumed the owners were out exploring in their UTV. I’ve always had trouble finding campsites in this region because most clearings are designed as parking areas for RVs, right beside the road, since people who travel with their own self-enclosed homes have less need for isolation.
I rattled and bounced across a rolling plateau for about three miles until the road finally wound down into the canyon proper, where I found a place to pull over. The author of the online report hadn’t given site locations so I wanted to check upstream on foot before driving ahead.
I walked nearly a half mile upcanyon but saw nothing promising. This is BLM land, open range, and I found occasional old cowpies throughout the day, but nothing recent.
The canyon was already awe-inspiring, and it became more so the farther I went. Suddenly I rounded a bend and saw a spread of brilliant green ahead – a stand of cottonwoods. I came to a sidetrack that led up a sandy bank into a small grove, and behind it was a cliff that looked promising.
Rock writers in sandstone country typically made use of sheer cliffs that were darkly patinated and free of drainage from above. When you’re looking for sites, you look for smooth, shiny cliffs that are free of water streaking and are reachable by human hands. Sometimes they’re elevated dozens of feet above the canyon bottom, requiring field glasses to spot, followed by a steep climb up a boulder-strewn debris slope.
I drove up onto the sand bank, and soon saw the petroglyphs. It was a nice site, but sadly vandalized with prominent graffiti – names and initials are the typical product of Anglos with limited imaginations and boundless egos. There was a perfect campsite here, so I memorized the location in case I didn’t find a better one downstream.
I soon came to running water, and a pool full of tadpoles. I pulled over for a young couple driving up canyon in a small side-by-side UTV – obviously the owners of the big truck and huge trailer I’d passed near the highway. Their monthly payments for all these toys could exceed my Social Security income!
Past sweeping bends beneath towering cliffs, I was driving slowly and craning my neck from side to side, glassing for likely sites, and I finally spotted a second site, about fifty feet up a debris slope. It was on a series of barely patinated, eroded, and stained rock faces – not the best surfaces for preservation – but because it required a climb, it had escaped vandalism by lazy white folks.
Downstream, I found more water and more lush vegetation, driving through a shallow pool then encountering a muddy one about forty feet long whose depth I couldn’t determine, so I stopped. I heard an engine approaching from behind, so I backed up, and the young couple whizzed past again on their UTV, splashing through the big pool, which reached their floorboard. Too deep for me!
It was lunchtime, but the canyon was narrow here, and I had to roll a heavy boulder out of the way to make a parking space off the roadway. Then I heard an engine approaching from downstream, and climbed up the bank to watch them drive through the big pool. It was a lifted pickup with big tires, and the water reached the axles – well over a foot deep.
I was making a sandwich out of the back of my vehicle when the young people passed a third time. They laughed and said they’d dropped a phone down-canyon and had to return to get it. One of the hazards of riding in an open vehicle. I congratulated them on finding it. Definitely not a day for solitude in a remote canyon.
Just as I was preparing to carry my lunch up to the shade of a cliff, an outlandish vehicle approached from up canyon – a “rock bouncer”, the ultimate evolution of the old dune buggy, with a lifted suspension, fully exposed frame with cargo bed in back, widened track, and giant tires. These still-rare contraptions, inspired by NASA and the Road Warrior movie, are the most extreme and capable off-road vehicles ever made – something you take where your Jeep, Hummer, ATV or dirt bike can’t go. In it was a friendly couple, probably in their early sixties, who had no idea where they were or where they were going, and asked if I had a map. Of course I was loaded with maps, including detailed topo printouts for this canyon, all of which the woman photographed with her phone.
Their RV was parked just off the highway at the foot of the high mountains, about twenty miles south. They were from Grand Junction, Colorado, “thirty minutes from the Utah desert”. They used to haul their boat to Lake Powell south of here, but were now more into backcountry exploring, and like almost everyone who visits these areas now, they base themselves in their RV and explore in their open off-road vehicle. Their goal was just to drive as far as possible all day on back roads, avoiding the highway, returning to “camp” by different routes if possible, so my maps were a great help. I warned them there was a river crossing at the mouth of this canyon, and the river was likely in flood.
After lunch, I had to climb and follow a ledge for several hundred yards to get past the deep pool. Back down on the rocky road, it was a hot day to be walking exposed under the sun, with cliff swallows swooping and crying overhead, the cliffs and rock outcrops approaching and receding over and over, as I rounded the never-ending sweeping bends, glassing for petroglyph panels above.
I climbed through a grove of cottonwoods and partway up a debris slope without finding anything, when I heard more engines coming up canyon. They passed below me, oblivious, a convoy of nine vehicles led by what looked like a boxy, repurposed game warden truck, followed by various Jeep Wranglers, Toyota FJs, and lifted pickups, and ending with a stock Toyota Highlander, which I was amazed could ford the deep pool. Then I descended and continued down canyon until I spotted the next site.
This one required a more precarious climb, but had been attacked anyway by enterprising white vandals. Nor was it as interesting as the earlier panels.
I continued downstream, but the canyon became wider and the cliffs taller, with debris skirts over a hundred and fifty feet high. I glassed promising, darkly patinated rock faces but could find nothing up there, I had no shade and it was getting hot, and I kept having to climb out of the track to let off-road vehicles pass, so I finally gave up. On the bright side, I’d encountered very few flies, despite the warmth, old cattle sign, and abundance of water. That original shaded campsite was beckoning – hopefully no one else had taken it yet.
As I walked back, I pondered my goal for these trips. Looking for more obscure prehistoric sites, I’m destined to reach a point where my vehicle can’t proceed and I need to walk miles on sun-exposed canyon roads, passed by UTVs and lifted pickups full of oblivious explorers. Is this really how I want to spend my time in nature?
Even if I had a more capable vehicle, that would just mean more driving time and less hiking time. Maybe I should be looking for better hikes, closer to the highway, instead of better prehistoric sites, and give up on the really remote stuff requiring long backcountry drives.
I reached my parked vehicle just ahead of the couple from Grand Junction. They’d crossed the flooded river – it reached the floorboard of their rock bouncer, which was waist-high for me – exploring for an hour or so toward the Maze district of Canyonlands. I said I’d been looking for rock art, and they were surprised, as if they’d never considered any purpose for being here other than driving. So I tried to describe how to find the site I was hoping to camp at.
They were admiring the petroglyphs and bemoaning the vandalism when I arrived. “Why do people destroy things they don’t understand?” the woman cried. “Big question,” I answered, and the man grinned sadly, shaking his head. I actually think it’s complicated, with almost as many answers as there are vandals. In the old days, ranchers and cowboys likely saw the Indians as barbarians and prehistoric artifacts as the work of Godless heathens. Today’s young people have been abused by a dysfunctional society and are as likely to destroy as to create. I’d chanced upon a professional rock art website the day before and learned one of the most spectacular and well-known panels on the San Rafael Swell, north of here, had recently been defaced, so although most of the vandalism I’d seen today was historic, the problem is just as bad now, after generations of what we call “education”.
We talked pleasantly for a while, comparing our hometowns and favorite haunts – they said they lived in paradise but loved the desert too, and were hungry for information about this area. They said they’d been snowed on in the mountains last night, while I was sleeping my motel room below, in town. They said they had to drive home tomorrow, and I mentioned I was retired. They said that was hopefully only a few years away for them, but with all their investment in toys, I wondered how soon they’d really be financially secure. A rig like theirs – truck, trailer, and rock bouncer – could cost well over $200,000, and when combined with a home mortgage, the monthly payments could postpone retirement indefinitely. They do save the cost of motel rooms, which for me can amount to $1,500 a year. But I’m guessing for many people I encountered that day, expensive toys would become a burden.
The sun was still high, so I filled my shower bag and left it on a rock to warm up while enjoying an early beer. Then I noticed a couple of cottonwoods separated by the perfect distance for my hammock – I’d had to replace my original Yucatan hammock after the house fire, and this would be the first test of the replacement.
That shower was wonderful and it felt great to be clean again and wearing clean clothes. Vehicles kept passing but I was screened by cottonwoods. I lit my oil lantern and made dinner after sunset, had an unusual second beer, and sat out under the light of the high half moon, admiring it and Venus, which was setting in the west. I had bad double vision, but it varied from minute to minute and I could sometimes reduce it by concentrating. In a tiny vehicle I’d paid $4,000 cash for, I’d carried everything I needed to be safe and comfortable outdoors. I would sleep out under the stars, the way I was taught.
I can enjoy nature in the daytime without leaving my home. But when I go camping, I want to recapture the experience of my ancestors, to adapt to and learn from new natural habitats both day and night. I spent much of my life learning the skills required to live simply outdoors, and I’m still learning – why would I want to give up that priceless achievement now? Why would anyone need to haul a familiar kitchen, bath, and bedroom with to them into the backcountry? It reminds me of the big box chain, Camping World, that specializes in RVs, trailers, and accessories. That’s not camping to me.
Finally I went to bed, and tossed and turned in the hammock for several hours. It’d been a few years since I’d slept in one, my back condition had been getting worse, and I’d settled into a habit of sleeping on my stomach, which isn’t possible in a hammock. It was 11:30 when bright lights suddenly hit the crowns of the trees above me. The light bounced around, then I heard a dog barking. I looked over at the sandy trail that led to my campsite, and saw a truck approaching slowly, a middle-aged woman walking beside it, and a big dog running toward me, barking. I yelled that the site was occupied, but the dog ran right up to my hammock, jumping and barking hysterically. I yelled to the woman, and she ran up to me and grabbed the dog. Without apologizing, she returned to the truck and with difficulty, they backed out.
I swore to bring “Occupied” signs to post at the access points on future trips. Giving up on the hammock experiment, I used a flashlight to find a level spot, unpacked my tarp, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, and pillow, and finally got to sleep well after midnight.
Friday, June 2nd, 2023: 2023 Trips, Colorado Plateau, Indigenous Cultures, Regions, Road Trips, Society.
I woke well-rested in my beautiful campsite, as more UTV riders passed up and down the remote canyon in early morning. The plan for the day was to head north, stopping briefly to check out a couple of modest but better known sites near the highway before making a longer drive into unfamiliar backcountry, hoping for another good campsite in preparation for a canyon hike the next day.
The first stop was a pictograph site located near a popular state park designed for off-roaders of all kinds. They were all naturally avoiding the pictographs and unloading their UTVs, ATVs, and dirt bikes to raise dust and sand in a roar of engines.
This small panel in the ancient “Barrier Canyon” style has severely decayed due to natural erosion. It was lunchtime so I made a sandwich before heading north again.
Not long after, I joined the westbound interstate for about three miles, signalling far in advance and carefully making an abrupt right turn onto a gravel road with big rigs barreling past me at 80 mph. This road leads into a spectacular narrow canyon with towering walls where I abruptly came upon a big family group of adults and kids who’d arrived on dirt bikes and UTVs and were noisily climbing around in the shade of a huge, shaded stone alcove where water oozed out of the base of the cliff in a profusion of ferns. There was one kid tottering around in bike helmet and full body armor who couldn’t have been older than three.
It turned out that this was not the pictograph site, so I parked and walked a short distance to the next bend, where I saw a pictograph panel under a smaller overhang, at the base of a tall sunlit cliff. All these publicized sites had fences to prevent vehicle access, but the fences had trails leading behind them for a closer look on foot.
This site was called the Black Dragon, but I couldn’t see what the name referred to. Maybe it was farther down the canyon and I missed it? Still, these paintings in the heart of the Barrier Canyon “stylistic region” were done in a completely different, seemingly abstract style – much more like what we have in the Mojave. In any event there were too many people there today – other vehicles passed me several times.
I rejoined the interstate and headed west across the “Swell”, past constantly changing canyons and formations, and finally down the other side, where I took an unfamiliar shortcut on my way north. There were high snow-draped mountains in the western distance, and this road started by following one of the creeks that drain that range, all of which are raging torrents now, gray with sediment.
The back road I wanted led east from a small farming town – I stopped there for gas and motor oil to top up my engine. Here I found the core of the UTV culture that’s taking over the rural west. The extra-wide streets had been repurposed for UTVs, speed limits were set to 25 and UTVs had the right of way, so if you wanted to drive through town, you had to creep behind them as the drivers waved to each other and defiantly ignored you. They kept their cars and trucks parked at home, reserved for highway driving.
I’d printed complicated directions on backcountry roads to the edge of the remote canyon which “should be better known for its high quality petroglyph panels”. These directions led me past heavily irrigated alfalfa fields, grazing cattle, and dilapidated or outright ruined Mormon farmhouses – the poorest I’d ever seen. The gravel road climbed a plateau, then descended through a maze of gray canyons, eventually emerging onto a red clay plateau to a crossroads. All along the way, big roadside clearings were occupied by parked pickup trucks with empty UTV trailers, and at one point I met a group of teenagers on dirt bikes.
I came to a Y junction and took the left branch, which had been rained on and driven while the clay was wet, leaving deep crisscrossing ruts in a rock-hard surface which went on for a couple of miles.
Cattle were grazing along the clay road, fifteen miles from any ranch. I came to another Y and climbed another plateau, finally reaching a wooden fence and the rim of the 600 foot deep canyon.
I followed the rim, on a fairly rough and hazardous clay and bedrock road, to the trailhead, and past, where campsites had been promised. There turned out to be only one, totally exposed on the very rim of the canyon. I unpacked and set up my shower bag to warm in the sun. A wind came up, and got steadily stronger, becoming a full gale across the rim.
As an experiment, I tried spreading and anchoring my tarp, but even with a continuous line of heavy rocks it still ballooned out in the middle. I tried to warm up leftovers for dinner, but had to enclose my stove in the back of the vehicle and wait over a half hour for the pot to warm in the crazy wind.
I had about 20 minutes of sunlight left when I finally gave up, after two hours in this ridiculous campsite. I drove six miles back on the road and found another site on an exposed ledge below bluffs. This site had no wind, and I quickly took a cool shower just as the sun set. Tomorrow I would drive back to the canyon rim and hike down into it looking for more petroglyphs.
Monday, June 5th, 2023: 2023 Trips, Colorado Plateau, Indigenous Cultures, Regions, Road Trips, Society.
After the fiasco on the canyon rim, Day Five’s second and final campsite started out warm at sundown, but the temperature plunged throughout the night, so that I had to keep getting up and adding clothes. The one positive was my vision – I’d had bad double vision the previous night, but now I could focus well on both moon and stars. Presumably these constant changes are due to the cataracts.
It was still dark when I woke up freezing in my warm-weather bag, and turning my head eastward saw the faint light of approaching dawn. I knew I couldn’t sleep anymore, so I waited, huddled in the fetal position to conserve body heat, until the sun hit the bluffs to my west.
Then I got up, went to the vehicle and dug out the remainder of my winter clothes. All bundled up with thermal cap, hood, and gloves, I estimated it was well below 40 here at the end of May, at about 5,600 feet elevation. The sun soon reached my campsite, where I made coffee, had breakfast, and began shedding clothes.
I put on my boots and started to pack up for the drive back to the canyon rim, but immediately felt a sharp pain above the outside of my right ankle, so bad I could barely walk and had to remove the boots. These boots have extra ankle support, and I rarely but occasionally get these ankle pains that seem to represent some kind of pressure point. I normally address it with a felt pad over the ankle while hiking, and the pain disappears completely when I put on regular shoes that don’t contact the sensitive area. But this pain was higher up than usual – on the tendon that runs upward from the ankle on the outside of the calf. I wouldn’t be able to hike at all with this kind of pain!
But I changed into sneakers and drove back to the rim, hoping to find a solution once I got there.
At the rim, I first tried adding a felt pad, but that didn’t help at all. Then I tried lacing the boot a couple hooks lower, but that made little difference. So I dug out my Ace bandage. wrapped that around my lower calf, shouldered my pack and started down the trail, but I only made it a hundred yards before having to turn back.
Could I hike in sneakers? Many people do, but the chronic inflammation in my left foot requires extra support. Still, I figured it was worth a try – my sneakers are “stability shoes” with supportive soles, and they have custom orthotics like my hiking boots. I limped back up to the vehicle and switched to the sneakers. But in sneakers, carrying my heavy pack with four liters of water, I only made it a few yards down the steep trail before I realized this wouldn’t work.
I had one last chance. I’d brought my waterproof winter boots in case I had to ford streams, and they have more padding and more hooks for fine-tuning the lacing. When laced all the way up, they caused the same pain, but when I laced the right one as low as possible, so the area around the ankle was free, the pain was much reduced. It still hurt, but I was damned if I would give up.
The trail follows an old road down a steep white clay slope into a network of gullies, which eventually lead to a red clay ledge, where the road ends at an old campsite on a point overlooking the canyon. This whole area is federally designated wilderness, so I’d finally reached a place where no vehicles could bother me!
From the point, you have to find your way down a very steep series of bare rock faces and narrow ledges, sometimes marked by the tracks of many other recent hikers, sometimes marked only by cairns. In places there are several parallel routes, but they all eventually converge. The rocks along the way are fantastic!
Finally I reached the canyon bottom, where the rim trail joins the canyon trail and the surface turns to soft powder sand. I’d seen from above that the canyon was flooded upstream, and now I found out why – a beaver dam!
My ankle pain had completely disappeared, and never returned! It’s got to be a nerve-related pressure point responding to contact with the ankle support built into the boot. It’s a real drag, because these boots are otherwise perfect for me.
The flowers were spectacular down here. I’d brought topo maps for the whole canyon, showing that it looped repeatedly back and forth like a snake for about ten miles northward to the river. Plus I’d brought a much less detailed map printed off the Web, showing roughly where the petroglyphs could be found, with directions. The petroglyph map and directions weren’t very detailed – which of course helps deter vandals – so I missed the first panel completely and overshot by a few hundred yards, crossing the stream a couple of times, before realizing I must’ve missed it.
Returning to the first stream crossing, I still couldn’t seen the petroglyphs from the trail, but noticed a patinated face a hundred and fifty feet above that looked promising, so I began climbing, and was eventually able to make them out.
The online directions said this canyon deserves to be better known for its rock art, which is why I was here in the first place. And this series of panels turned out to be very large and complex. The only problem was weathering – most of the images had become so faint they were hard to see and almost impossible to photograph, especially in the bright light of midday.
One of my readers surprised me by erroneously assuming I haven’t been enhancing these images to make them more readable. I actually do enhance all my petroglyph and pictograph images, but primarily to make them look the way I actually saw them, since I’m almost never able to photograph them in good light, and I’m not proficient enough with cameras to adjust exposure on the spot.
So the images often end up overexposed. Fortunately I’m much more experienced with Photoshop than I am with a camera, so I add contrast and/or saturation afterward as needed to make the photos look the way I saw them. I hate the digital effects used by some rock art photographers to enhance the readability of the images; I only want them to look the way I saw them, in their natural setting.
After leaving the first site I recrossed the creek, working my way around the next bend on a much-trodden trail. But when I approached the third bend and the trail began climbing, I realized that most hikers are using this canyon to access the backpacking trail to the high point of the Swell, about six miles east. The route down the canyon is less used, so there’s no single trail, just a variety of lesser-used routes through dense vegetation that often disappear or become a dead end at a cliff edge.
The next petroglyph panel was supposed to be on the north side of a “rincon”. I’d heard the word but not its meaning; when I came to a huge cove west of the stream with a prominent stone butte in the middle of it, I assumed the butte was the rincon. Getting there wasn’t easy; the stream entered a narrow, sheer-sided stone gap where it was too deep to ford. I had to find a ford upstream, then climb steep banks of loose rubble and sandstone ledges high above the stream to get around the gap. That brought me to the north side of the butte, and a slope which was covered with biological soil crust. I carefully meandered across it on old cattle trails, finding no rock faces suitable for petroglyphs.
Re-checking the directions, I discovered I was supposed to be working my way up a “plain”. I immediately saw the plain below on my right, and when I made my way down there, noticed a small patinated surface at the base of the 300-foot-tall red sandstone cliff.
This had a single panel, featuring bison and a horned figure on horseback, but the left side had exfoliated. Another check of my notes showed that this was that last panel in the canyon, but further back in the big cove I saw cliffs that looked promising and decided to explore that way. I later learned that “rincon” means hidden valley – the whole cove was the rincon.
I did find two sheep petroglyphs back there which the author of the web page had missed. Finally I was discovering something new by myself! But that was it for today – I figured I’d only gone about three miles but it was already mid-afternoon. I didn’t want to spend another night in this area, and to keep my options open I needed to head back to the vehicle now.
Since the directions to the second site had started from the creek below the narrow gap, I went straight down the plain to the creek, and crossed there on steppingstones. I found a trail up the opposite bank, which led to the ledge high above the gap across from where I’d climbed earlier. But the trail ended there at the edge of a cliff. The tracks showed lots of hikers had come up to this dead end – I was the latest.
I had to work my way back down, back across the creek, and through dense, trackless riparian vegetation to get up the opposite ledge and down the other side. The rest was straightforward, just returning the way I’d come.
I’d been dreading the climb out of the canyon, up those tilted ledges of white sandstone under full sun, but that turned out to be the best part of the hike.
I had to drive to the highway the same way I’d come in, so I waited until then to decide where to go next. I was due in California, at the big lake on the Colorado River, in two days. That would be 7-1/2 hours from here by the interstate through Las Vegas, which was the last way I wanted to go. Since I had two days to get there I decided to drive north an hour tonight, to a small town I was familiar with that had a cheap but comfortable motel. The town had little in the way of restaurants but I had plenty to eat in my room.
Next: Days Seven Through Eleven
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