Monday, December 16th, 2019
Monday, December 9th, 2019: Black Range, Hikes, Rabb, Southwest New Mexico.
Another one of those mixed-up expeditions!
It was a dark day with solid cloud cover. Since the days are shorter in winter, I wanted to do a hike that would involve less driving, and since snow had cut short last Sunday’s hike, I needed to do it at lower elevation to avoid deep snow from last week’s storm. I decided to drive east for a canyon ascent I’ve done many times.
But as I got into the mountains, I saw the streams in flood, from melting snow, and I remembered that this involves a lot of stream crossings, which are usually easy when the water level is lower. I realized I had made a mistake, by not thinking ahead, and sure enough, the beginning of the trail was too flooded to cross
But I had driven all the way over here, and there are only three hiking trails in this area: this one, the crest trail, and a lower-elevation I had always avoided. First I drove up to the crest, only about 10 minutes farther. But there it was too cold – windy and freezing – and I had forgotten to bring my thermal underwear.
So I drove back down to the lower trailhead, another 20 minute drive. The trail starts on an old forest road that runs upstream in the shallow valley of a normally dry creek. I have never seen so much water in New Mexico! Every gully was running, and the streams in the valley floors were like rivers. When the water flowed over rocks, it turned this weird yellow color, maybe from clay upstream.
After two-thirds of a mile the trail proper left the old road and climbed the convoluted divide between this and the next creek west. I hadn’t brought a map so I had no idea what would come next. I ended up gaining almost 500 feet of elevation, yielding a broad view of the west side of the range. What dark and gloomy day!
On the west side of the divide, the trail descended to the valley of another rushing stream. Upstream a broad floodplain opened out. The trail – barely visible in waist-high grass – kept crossing and recrossing the stream, and it was a challenge to find ways to cross the floodwater.
Farther up the floodplain, I came to an open ponderosa forest, heavily grazed by cattle, where past floods had cut deep gullies. There, the trail disappeared. I pursued cattle trails up the main gully until the petered out, then returned to the forest where I’d seen white rocks in the distance.
To reach the rocks, I had to climb across more deep gullies choked with flood debris, but it was worth it. This was the “park” the trail is named after – a basin surrounded by dramatic rock outcrops. I climbed one outcrop, high enough to get a view of the basin – still dark under those heavy clouds.
I knew the trail continues past the park, climbing higher in the mountains, but had no idea where to find it, so I headed back.
First Steps in the First Wilderness Part 8: December
Monday, December 16th, 2019: Hikes, Holt, Mogollon Mountains, Southwest New Mexico.
There were snowstorms in the mountains over Thanksgiving, and more a week later. As the weather warmed after that, I discovered the creeks were too flooded with snowmelt to cross in many places, and the snow too deep and crusty to trudge uphill in. But the weather stayed warm and I was hoping I could get in one more hike up my favorite trail before more snow made it impassable.
The creek in the canyon bottom turned out to be very loud, but crossable. The bigger problem was all the new logs blocking the trail, fire-killed snags brought down as melting snow softened the soil. But I climbed over and around them.
Finally, nearing the crest, I encountered snow up to knee deep, but not enough to stop me. I was motivated by the views!
It was windy up there, so I didn’t linger. But for the third Sunday in a row, I was passed by a golden eagle – this time carrying what appeared to be a stick.
The five-mile descent was made difficult by an unexplained searing pain in my ankle. I’d started the hike earlier than usual, but nearing the winter solstice the days are short, and the pain slowed me down, so I expected to finish the hike in the dark.
Luckily I had my new headlamp to help me over the loose rock in the last half-mile of trail!
